Wednesday 15 July 2009

Kebab Doldrums; Indian Fast Food

I am feeling disillusioned with kebab literature. I shall admit that I have had at least two perfectly delicious kebabs since my last post, the Grecian and Effe's, but not felt suitably inspired to write about them. They were delicious, and I could probably dream up an amusing anecdote based around the procurement of them, but that spark has just been missing. It is for this reason that I feel I am compelled to reinvigorate my bloggings by reviewing an Indian takeaway that is very dear to my heart: Indian Fast Food.

Yes. They are called "Indian Fast Food". Plain and simple - you know you are getting Indian food. Reasonably fast. What strikes most people about it, and I shall be honest here, is that it looks pretty ropey. Wedged unceremoniously between a Doc Marten boot shop and the Cat and Wheel pub, the interior appears dark and unwelcoming, the walls unadorned with the sterotypical flock wallpaper and garish imagery. It smells a bit bleachy. Couple this with the no-nonsense name and it just doesn't draw the eye; having said this it is often fairly busy even on quiet weekday evenings.

Upon entering you are met with what seems more like a cheap breakfast cafe, the framed print on the wall of a bridge in Bangladesh over a murky river the only clue as to the delights the kitchen holds. The staff are very friendly indeed, over time and repeated visits they have started asking If I am well or commented on the weather which is a lovely touch.

Their menu scans well, with the usual array of anglo-Indian cuisine: Tikka Masala, Bhuna, Jalfrezi, Madras, Vindaloo et at. The main unusual aspect is twofold: the choice of meats and the price. The choice of meat is simple, mutton or chicken and they range from £3.50 for a basic curry to only £4.75 or so for a Tikka Masala. Mutton in 2009 I hear you cry! If anything they are ahead of their time, celebrity chefs are wholeheartedly endorsing mutton, in this case its chunky texture and strong flavour and texture works incredibly well with curry. I certainly consider nothing else.

A standard order for two reads as follows: Chicken Tikka Masala, Mutton Jalfrezi, Saag Aloo, Pilau Rice, Naan Bread, 2 Popadoms, Mango Chutney, Chips. This comes to an incredible £16, and feeds us admirably. The dishes themselves are plentiful for the price, no skimping on meat, although at times they can be a touch greasy (I blame this on a rogue chef, I just pour the oil off). The only issue, as with all curries, is the 4am gut cramps and associated increase in morning "visits" required. Don't let this put you off, this is an incredibly fine curry house that stands up well to its more expensive (and hyped up) neighbours. Oh Calcutta is overpriced, has gimmicky specials and is staffed by Brits; Sheesh Mahal is basically a standard 1970s curry house without the prices to match. Their trout dishes are nice, mind.

Part of the inspiration for this review is as a tribute - they are moving across the road to the site of the old "Wonderful" Chinese restaurant. (Ironically it was anything but). I truly hope they keep their unique character, their cheap prices and choice of mutton or chicken. If they fail to do this, then I shall be truly devastated.